Surf conditions have been pretty dismal since I've returned to CA. Had one fun morning session in Huntington last week, but the rest has been pretty unfulfilling (look at me, already a cynic – while in NY and TX, I would have sacrificed a liver for even small surfable waves!). Today I awoke to an early text from my brother: "Blackies is firing!" Of course, the day the waves come up, I need to work. I raced through finishing up my feature, then literally threw my wetsuit and towel into my car, grabbed two boards and raced down to the water around 11 a.m. Photos below are a little of what was out there. Didn't want to spend much time finding the right angles or peak action – I was too anxious to get a few of my own.
No comments:
Post a Comment