Newport (Well, Blackies) Has Waves, And We All Rejoice

Surf conditions have been pretty dismal since I've returned to CA. Had one fun morning session in Huntington last week, but the rest has been pretty unfulfilling (look at me, already a cynic – while in NY and TX, I would have sacrificed a liver for even small surfable waves!). Today I awoke to an early text from my brother: "Blackies is firing!" Of course, the day the waves come up, I need to work. I raced through finishing up my feature, then literally threw my wetsuit and towel into my car, grabbed two boards and raced down to the water around 11 a.m. Photos below are a little of what was out there. Didn't want to spend much time finding the right angles or peak action – I was too anxious to get a few of my own.

Blackies & Seagull Yoga

Had my first surf back at Blackies in Newport Beach, the spot I learned to surf and one that served as my home break for so many years. It had been raining the previous few days and there was some wind on it, but there appeared to be a few little fun bumps by the pier. Some older couple sitting in their minivan warned me they had heard about a strong current in the water, but I dismissed it as out-of-towner nonsense. But I was friendly about it: "I'm on my surfboard, I should be fine." Went out and was almost immediately washed through the pier, with tourists on the pier watching. Had a good laugh. Composed myself and caught a few, while dodging whatever had washed out of the Santa Ana River mouth and into the lineup. So far, from what I can tell, no diseases. Didn't last too long out there. But good to be back. Shot a few photos of the scenery — low tide, kids playing, seagulls lounging. This photo struck me as funny. More to come in another post.

On These Warm Spring Days...

It's hot and humid in NYC today. I'm stuck at school working on various projects, but the only place I want to be is at the beach on a surfboard, legs in the chilly spring waters and my gaze out toward sea in hopes of spotting an oncoming swell. I picture myself at 58th Street in Newport Beach, because the waves are a bit faster and crowds thinner (in numbers, not weight - though that also applies). A day at Malibu aboard a log would also be acceptable, except that the crowds border on hysteria. The numbers, the characters, the egos, the newbees. It doesn't matter if it's 1 to 2 feet or 5 to 6, for some reason the crowds flock regardless. It such a pristine, simple-looking wave, but when the size gets up there, it really is a place only for the experienced – though that will never be the case. Anyhow, as I sit in an air conditioned room, overlooking the mass of undergrads shirtless and pale in the quad area at Columbia University, know I'd rather be sunscreen'd and maybe a bit sunburned, with sand in my hair and the smell of salt on my skin.

I need some waves.

Image from ffffound.com

Scratching For the Surface

It's been a hectic and sleepless past few weeks. I've been busting my behind (for the most part) trying to get the next issue of morSURF off to the printer all the while keeping my social sanity. (There's only so many evenings I can keep myself cooped up at my desk with only my Macbook and my cat to keep me company.) So, with the end in sight (for this issue, that is), I'm coming up for a breath of air to declare to myself and the blogging universe that I will return to my position of eclectic wordsmith and regular post'r. In the meantime, enjoy this small bit of satisfaction that helped get me through the down days ... a solid southern hemi swell that turned Newport Beach's groin field into a pointbreak. Until next time, stay classy.

NB, stacked four deep.

Golden Grace

Got a late-afternoon call from a guy I've shot with quite a bit in Newport Beach, Eric Vallely, who mentioned that there were a few peaks left over from the last swell. Eric's been around the scene for a while, shot with some top photographers, so I figured it'd be worth a shot. Good call. The waist-high lines, combined with the Santa Ana's in town, clear skies and low tide resulted in a very productive 30 minute session just before sunset. (Below is one of the B-level shots.)